The Hills of Donegal

Winter has well and truly arrived with temperatures dropping to zero degrees overnight and climbing to around 8 degrees during the day.  I knew it was officially winter when I slipped on ice and fell down with a bang in the middle of some startled onlookers.  People rushed over to help me up and luckily the only thing damaged was my ego.  I can now add Ireland to the list of countries I have slipped and fallen on ice in.

Michael hired a car so that we could take a weekend trip to Donegal.  We had planned the trip for last year however we both had trouble renewing our Australian driver’s licences.  They finally arrived in the nick of time just two days before we were due to depart.  We had a lovely drive through the countryside, which was covered in snow making everything look pretty and fresh.  WB Yeats was buried at Drumcliff Church, so we stopped there to look at his grave and ended up having lunch at a beautiful café in the grounds.  Then it was off to find our hotel, The Great Northern at Bundoran.  The hotel was very grand, having been built around 1850 and was situated in the middle of a gold course high on the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  It was a vast complex of corridors leading into more corridors and was reminiscent in its faded glory of the Overlook Hotel from The Shining.  Our room was enormous with three beds and two bathrooms and our stay was very comfortable indeed.  It was great to enjoy our evening meal in the restaurant and not have to worry about driving home.

The next morning, we sat in the dining room enjoying our full Irish breakfasts overlooking the golf course watching the mad golfers starting the day with a round.  It was hilarious to see them rugged up in thick jumpers, coats, scarves, hats and gloves and one wondered how they were going to be able to swing their clubs under the weight of their clothing.  I don’t think even Michael’s dad, keen golfer that he is, would venture out in the cold wind like those golfers did.

It was soon time for us to start wending our way back to Dublin so we decided to take a detour to Knock.  I had wanted to visit the National Shrine of Our Lady of Knock as I had read that Susan Boyle had made a large donation (rumoured to be 1million euro) to rebuild the church there.  I have since found out that was untrue however she does visit Knock every year with the annual Legion of Mary pilgrimage.  Michael and I were stunned when we arrived to see two huge car parks capable of holding hundreds of cars and buses. 




There was also a long row of outdoor taps where you could fill your containers with holy water.  The shrine itself is situated a small, modern chapel and it was very peaceful to sit and read the history of the visitations.  One amusing thing happened to us there.  When we stood up to leave, the door opened and a dishevelled, elderly man with white hair standing on end was entering.  Michael and I politely stood aside to let him enter when he snapped at us “come on, come on” and beckoned us to exit all the while muttering and glaring at us.  We left the building and burst out laughing as we both thought exactly the same thing – he was a dead ringer for Father Jack Hackett from Father Ted.

Belfast Child

Michael and I took our first international trip for 2016 to Belfast (Depending who you ask it may not be).  We caught to the afternoon train however we had to alight at Newry due to heaving flooding in the area caused by Storm Frank.  We traveled the rest of the journey by bus and arrived at precisely the same time that we would have if we had caught the train all the way.  Naturally, it was pouring with rain, so we had a wet walk to our hotel followed by a fast food meal as everywhere else was closed due it being New Year’s Day.

Sampson and Goliath

The streets of Belfast were still lit with beautiful Christmas lights, the most impressive being the lights on the City Hall.  The City Hall is a grand building and it was lit with a colourful display of lights, which showcased its magnificence. 

The live nativity scene with donkey, a goat eating the decorations, sheep and kids

He eeaaways says that

The next day, the weather was much kinder, so we were able to take in the sights.  I love the Victorian architecture of Belfast, as it is so different to the Georgian buildings of Dublin.  We both had a Belfast Bap for breakfast at the St George’s Market, which were so enormous that they kept us going for the entire day.  The market is always great to walk around as they sell many quality Irish handcrafts and artwork as well as fresh food and coffee.

Belfast Bap - Fried Egg, 3 rashers of bacon, 1 sausage, 1 black pudding and 2 hash browns

We took a long walk up to the Ulster Museum, as I wanted to view the painting, The Green Coat by Sir John Lavery.  There is something very striking about this piece, and it was wonderful to be able to view it again.  There was also an exhibition, Silent Testimony by Colin Davidson.  This was an exhibition of portrait paintings of eighteen people and the stories of their individual experiences of loss through the Troubles.  This was a powerful way to show the impact on everyday people, those injured, their families and of course, those who died.

The main reason for revisiting Belfast was that we wanted to take a black cab tour around the Shankill and Falls Roads area.  When we were last in Belfast Michael and I walked the area and we noticed these black cab tours taking small groups of people and explaining the history of the area.  We had a guide all to ourselves and we spent a fascinating hour and a half driving around whilst having various points of interest explained to us.  Our guide grew up in the area and would not tell us whether he was Protestant or Catholic until the very end of the tour, when he asked us to guess which religion he was.  Both Michael and I guessed Protestant however we were both wrong.  It was a testament to how he tried not to tell us a biased version of events.  There were a number of things that we learned during the tour, for example, Michael and I had seen the huge gates around the area but assumed that these were relics from the past however we discovered that they are still used today.  In fact, the gates around the Catholic area are closed and locked every weekend to minimise the trouble from young people in the area.  Another thing we learned was regarding rubber bullets.  When I had heard rubber bullets mentioned in news reports, I pictured in my mind a projectile the same size as an ordinary bullet but made of rubber.  Wrong.  Our guide showed us an actual rubber bullet and it was 15cm in length and weighed 140 grammes.  It was huge and looked like something you would use to shoot an elephant.  Our guide told us at the end of the tour that he was struck by one of these bullets as a child and to this day he has quarterly cortisone injections to relieve the pain it caused.  The most fascinating thing we learned was regarding the poppy.  I had noticed on Remembrance Day that no one wore poppies in Ireland and I couldn’t see them on sale anywhere.  I assumed that this was because of their British association and also the complex history of the Irish in WW1.  It turns out that whilst those reasons are partially true, the real reason that the Irish do not wear the poppy is because the UVF have appropriated the poppy as their symbol.  In fact, we saw one mural depicting a UVF commander with a wreath of poppies around his head, each poppy representing a person he had murdered during his career.  The tour, whilst it was a grim reminder of the recent past, also showed hope for the future.  Our guide has moved out of the Catholic enclave and now lives side by side with Protestants.  His children attended a non-sectarian school and he firmly believes that whilst there are still terrorist groups on both sides, that things will never go back to the violent days of the past.

   

The Dublin Saunter

Well, it has been a while since our last blog post and due to popular demand Michael thought it was time for an update on our life in Dublin (actually not one single person has commented on our lack of updates however I won’t let the truth get in the way of a good story).

Michael is enjoying work and has undertaken a few business trips to Shannon, Edinburgh and London.  He even came within a whisker of meeting the Princess Royal as she was presenting a business award at the hotel where he was staying.

Phoenix Park only 5 km away with 2 herds of Deer

 

Dublin continues to treat us very well and we have settled into a relaxed rhythm of life.  It has been interesting to watch the city change with the seasons –not just the weather but also the people.  During the summer, it is difficult to walk the streets due to the hordes of tourists who converge by the bus load into the city centre.  The numbers ever so slowly dwindle over the autumn until by November, almost overnight, the streets are empty. 

The weather is a topic that is constantly on the lips of the Irish people.  When it is discovered that Michael and I are living here, people are incredulous that we would leave the Australian sunshine behind and settle here, albeit for a short time.  Every single shopkeeper, without exception, will comment on the weather of the day, usually along the lines of “freezing today” or “shocking weather we be having”.  It is wonderful to hear them say how “grand” the weather is when the temperature rises above 15 degrees.  Actually, the weather doesn’t bother us much.  The cold is not unpleasant (when you have lived in Canada, the Irish cold barely raises a shiver).  The rain is manageable, although at the moment we are having one storm after another, which is causing havoc in the west of the country and terrible flooding in England.  The wind is what I dislike the most, as the gusts can be so strong that they almost blow you off your feet.  I always laugh when I see people battling with umbrellas, half expecting them to take off like Mary Poppins.   All I do when the winds are up is pull by hair back with a Limerick facelift, tuck my neck down into my shoulders and stride purposefully to where I am going.  Luckily the wind seems to only come for a day or two and then the rest of the time it will be nice and calm.

Michael managed to get in a number of dives over the summer including a deep dive on the MVS Leinster.  The Leinster was a Dublin Steam Packet vessel, carrying 796 passengers, 501 of whom were lost after the ship was struck by two torpedoes, 14 knots from Dublin only one month prior to the end of WW1.  The dive season ends early in Ireland as not only does the temperature drop but the water becomes very choppy and unpredictable.

 

Te Dejo Madrid

One of the things that we most want to do whilst living in Ireland is to take advantage of the closeness of some of the major European cities. In September we headed to Madrid for four days soaking in the sunshine and 30c temperatures. On the first day we were trying to find the famous Mercado de San Miguel however we somehow ended up the Mercado San Anton instead. We wanted to try the tapas for lunch however with our Spanish not being very good, we ended up with 5 full meals instead of the smaller tapas dishes. They were all lovely but far too much - even for Michael!

 

The city is absolutely wonderful with grand building and boulevards.  It was particularly lovely to see huge banners strung across a number of public buildings welcoming refugees.  This was a stark contrast to Australia’s policy on refugees.

We finally found the Mercado San Miguel, which held stall after stall selling many different varieties of fresh tapas and seafood.  I don’t think I have ever seen so many jamons hanging, all of them glistening with oil.  The idea is to grab a plate or two with a glass of wine and enjoy grazing and people watching.  This is a very pleasant way to pass an hour or two.

One of the main reasons for our visit to Madrid was to see the Prado Museum and the work of one of our favourite artists, Hieronymus Bosch.  The Garden of Earthly Delights is possibly his most famous work and it was lovely to view it up close before the tourists arrived.  The museum also houses a number of works by El Greco and Goya and of course many other artists. The museum itself is very attractive and is well laid out.

 

Every Sunday the El Rastro streets are turned into a market place and the area transforms into a huge flea market, crammed with quality crafts.  The crowds flock there and the vibe is very happy and bustling.

 

We found plenty of little bars that served the traditional tapas with wine and beer and overall the people were very friendly and welcoming.  I think that Madrid was Michael’s favourite city that we have visited.

 

‘Twas Within A Mile o’ Edinburgh Town

In October we headed to Edinburgh for a weekend. I had visited there over 30 years ago and had always wanted to return. Michael had been for business however he did not have a chance to see the city. We could not have chosen a better weekend as the weather was a glorious sunny 15 c.  Naturally we walked the Royal Mile and up to the castle and generally wandered the entire city taking in all the sites including the statue of Greyfriars Bobby. The only downside was going to the World’s End Pub to watch the World Cup final between Australia and New Zealand. We were a bit concerned when we walked into bar and there was a sign stating that Referee Joubert was barred!  We did our best to keep a low profile however the Scots, whilst polite, were not sorry to see Australia lose. That evening was Halloween and there was an enormous street party that was completely packed out. We saw some amusing costumes, the best of which was a gentleman dressed as King Arthur pretending to gallop down the street whilst his friend jogged behind making horse clopping sounds with two coconut shells a la Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

 

We tried some Haggis in a number of places and I have to say that it was very pleasant.  I finally was able to taste an Irn Bru (pronounced Iron Brew), which is often described as Scotland’s other national drink.  It was very tasty.

 

Michael and I managed to take part in a whisky tasting in a lovely store just off the Royal Mile in Jeffery Street.  A very knowledgeable gentleman took us through the history of whisky, and then we sampled various types. The only pain with carry on luggage is you cannot have any liquids over 100ml so that ruled out buying any bottles.

 

We had a great weekend and look forward to exploring more of Scotland.

 

From Dublin With Love

In November we were lucky enough to watch the International Rules match between Ireland and Australia.  I was very excited, as there were 5 champion players as well as the coach from the all conquering, triple premiership winning team – the mighty, fighting Hawks.  It was an interesting match although our skills with the round ball left a lot to be desired.  We staged a late come back however it wasn’t to be our night.  It was thrilling to feel the roar of the crowd once again.  It was also a special night as it was the 95^th anniversary of the Bloody Sunday massacre at Croke Park and a memorial service was conducted and flames on Hill 16 were lit representing the 14 people murdered.

 

We have had a bit of fun doing a few touristy things now that it is the offseason.  We visited the wax museum, which was a bit of a hoot (Madame Tussaud’s it isn’t).  In fact, if the models hadn’t been labeled, we would have struggled to identify who they were supposed to be.  Michael and I also visited the Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience, which has recently opened.  We had the guide all to ourselves and he took us on a fascinating journey through Ireland’s rich rock and roll past.  The museum is crammed with memorabilia and it would be good to return there another day to just wander around and look at it all properly.  There was even an opportunity for us to dress up and play musical instruments, which we politely declined.

 

Continuing the rock and roll theme, one of the highlights of our year was attending a U2 concert.  Michael and I first saw them play at the Sydney Entertainment Centre just after it had opened 32 years ago (I believe that the Entertainment Centre is now to be demolished).  The chance to see the band play in their home town was too good an opportunity to be missed, so Michael booked tickets to one of their sell out shows as soon as the tickets went on sale.  It was an amazing night with a high tech stage that moved about and giant video screens so that you could see everything.  Bono and The Edge were in fine showmanship form and the crowd knew every word to every song and sang loud and clear.  They played all their old hits and some of their newer music and by the time the concert was over you felt well and truly entertained.  It was a fantastic night.

The Strasbourg Clock

Best picture in Munich

Just before Christmas we headed off to Munich and Strasbourg for four days to see the Christmas Markets. We had been in Munich around this time 3 years ago and it was covered in thick snow and was very cold and you needed the mulled wine just to warm up. This time it was 15c and no snow to be seen anywhere. The markets were still great and easy to get around.

 

Once again we visited Wirsthaus Zum Straubinger so that Michael could have his schweinhaxe and beer.  Michael ordered the whole schweinhaxe and the waiter did a double take and asked Michael if he was very hungry.  Michael responded that yes, he was very hungry.  The look on the waiter’s face was priceless when he came to collect Michael’s completely empty plate at the end of the meal. I don’t think that many people order and eat a whole schweinhaxe.

 

I had wanted to see the Christmas markets in Strasbourg as I had read that they were the best in Europe.  We caught a train and then a bus to Strasbourg and once again it was a very comfortable journey.  There was no snow however it was nice and sunny and so perfect to wander around. There were 12 markets of varying size in the old town all set up in old style and selling beautiful handmade decorations, chocolates and various other items and souvenirs. The street lighting was fantastic and finally I have found a city that rivals London for the best Christmas lights.  They were absolutely spectacular and the Christmas tree was gorgeous. Even with the lack of snow you felt you were in a wonderful place that could only be European.  Strasbourg has to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

Another bus and train journey back to Munich to relax and continue our travels. It was strange to see all the shops shut the Sunday before Christmas. In Australia people would accuse the Government of killing competition, but there they don’t have the Christmas hype and people were enjoying the decorations and markets that were on offer.

 

Nollaig Shona

Dublin city looked very pretty in the lead up to Christmas.  The streets were decorated with beautiful Christmas lights and we went the official “turning on” ceremony, which was fun.  Many of the stores decorated their windows with Brown Thomas going all out with exquisite decorations throughout the store.  Christmas music could be heard throughout the city which adding to the festive feeling.  There was even a Christmas market close to where we live.  Unfortunately the market was in danger of being blown away by the high winds that buffeted the area.  It was only the second year that Dublin has run a Christmas market and they plan to grow it to rival the big European ones.

Michael and I had a very quiet Christmas in Dublin with a nice lunch at the Radisson Blu. It was a cold 9c and the rain came down in buckets.  Still, we managed to enjoy ourselves and even had a chuckle at the waiter who served our red wine in an ice bucket!  The food was very good and it was a nice place to enjoy our 4^th Christmas away from home.