Paris Encore

Well, she who must not be named (my sister) arrived in one piece and we spent the night at the Heathrow Marriott.  In the morning we took the tube to St Pancras Station where we boarded the Eurostar to Paris.  The train trip was excellent and you only spend 20 minutes or so in the tunnel and the rest of the time you can watch the countryside go speeding past.

We alighted in the heart of Paris and walked to our accommodation, which was situated in the Republique district.  The apartment was huge, overlooking a church and had everything that we could possibly want and in an excellent location. 

The next day was the first Sunday of the month, which is when all Paris museums open free of charge.  Naturally we were keen to take advantage of this so we trotted off to the Musee de l’Orangerie to view the Monet Water Lilies once again (just as fabulous the second time around) followed by the Musee d’Orsay where I said hello to my old friend the White Bear.  We then tried to visit the Louvre however, the queue stretched as far as the eye could see so we agreed to leave that for another day.  We then took a walk along some of the bridges and were fascinated by the number of locks affixed to the railings.  We have seen this phenomenon throughout Asia and Europe where lovers engrave their names on the padlocks and affix them to a bridge and then throw the key into the water, the premise being that they will be together forever.  Michael said he would only consider doing it with a combination lock (who said romance was dead).

We also visited Notre Dame Cathedral and I must say that I was far more impressed this time around.  I think that I had become jaded by all the magnificent buildings/churches/cathedrals that we had seen on our travels so that by the time we reached Notre Dame last time I was a little underwhelmed.  This time I really took note of the stained glass windows and was amazed at their beauty.  
 

We walked past the site of the Bastille and were bemused that a place of such historic significance had only a small sign indicating the remains. I suppose that is one place that the French are happy to forget.  Our walk home took us past a very colourful parade with dozens of people banging drums.  We have absolutely no idea what that was about.

The next day we visited the Louvre and Michael was ecstatic that the painting that he wanted to see last time had returned – Liberty by Delacroix.  It really is an impressive painting and it was lovely to see it up close.  Michael then had some work to do so while he wandered off to take care of that, Christine and I took the opportunity to see the inside of some of the shops.  Galeries Lafayette is quite possibly the most beautiful store in the world.  There is a magnificent glass and steel dome and wonderful Art Nouveau staircases.  Balconies overlook the centre of the store so shopping there is a real experience.

Finally, we ventured to the Palace of Versailles.  Michael and I simply ran out of energy to attempt this fabulous palace the last time we were here.  We were certainly not disappointed.  The palace is simply beautiful and it was wonderful to see the Hall of Mirrors, having only read about it in history books.  The only downside was the number of tourists (understandable) however, when you consider that every single tourist wants to take innumerable photos, you end up with unbelievable bottlenecks in the queues.  It was amusing to watch Christine as at one stage she literally had a line up of people wanting her to take photos of them with their cameras.  In all seriousness, I think it would be better if photos were banned and be provided with a commemorative book to take home at the end of the visit.

Christine was keen to see the Queen’s Hamlet whilst we there so we took a long walk through the magnificent grounds.  The hamlet was where Marie Antoinette “played” at being a peasant.  An entire village was built complete with farm animals just so she could host parties there.  Bizarre concept however, the village was quite charming.

Our final day was spent visiting many of the tourist attractions in Paris.  The Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe followed by a meander down the Champs- Elysees. We also visited the unofficial Diana memorial at the Flame of Liberty and laid some flowers there.

We managed to fit quite a lot into our 5 day stay in Paris.  Next time I go to France, I would like to venture outside of Paris to the wine districts and I know that Michael would like to visit some of the battlefields.  Next time.

We Should Have Stayed In Paris

Another great journey on the Eurostar brought us back to London where we had booked a fabulous two-bedroom apartment in Chelsea for the duration of Christine’s visit.  We arrived at the address and waited for the agent to turn up with the keys.  We waited and we waited and then we waited some more.  Michael phoned the agent – no response.  He then fired up his laptop to investigate further.  To cut a very long story short he discovered that we had been scammed and there was no apartment.  Amazing isn’t it?  We have travelled to dozens of countries over the past 19 months losing nothing more than the price of a cup of coffee.  I guess our luck had to run out some time.  Anyway, Michael reported the theft to the police, the fraud squad and Commonwealth Bank.  I don’t think that we will be seeing that money again.

Determined not to let this spoil our stay in London we once again booked into the Copthorne Millenium Hotel at the Chelsea Football Club.  We then spent the next few days exploring London on many double decker bus trips.  We picnicked with the squirrels in St James’s Park and the weather was glorious.  We walked the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Walk through Kensington Gardens, Green Park, Hyde Park and St James’s Park and then visited the memorial fountain in Hyde Park.  We saw Wellington Arch and the Australian War Memorial.  Naturally we attended the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.  We paid our respects at the gravesite of Giro the Nazi Dog (it is the only Nazi memorial in London).  We visited Prestat in the Princes Arcade and purchased violet creams, which were the favourite chocolates of the Queen Mother (scrumptious).  We also visited Carnaby Street, which has changed so much over the years.  

Sunday was market day when we showed Christine many of the markets that we had discovered.  We started with the Columbia Road Flower Market, which was a riot of colour with all the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths on display.  

Then it was off to Petticoat Lane to view all the wares for sale there.  This was followed by Brick Lane, which was filled once again with hipsters, tourists and true East end types – a really fun place to be.  Old Spitalfields Market was next where we finally stopped for a lunch of steak and kidney pudding at a nearby pub. We finished the day with a stroll around Seven Dials.

Monday we moved into a two-bedroom apartment at Rotherhithe.  It was a nice place, which overlooked the Thames.  There was also a nature reserve nearby with many different types of ducks and waterfowl.

We had a lovely day out at Greenwich, this time taking in the Observatory (last time we went it was pouring with rain and we didn’t feel like climbing the hill).  A fascinating place and Michael particularly enjoyed wandering around the exhibits.  Our visit was timed perfectly so we were able see the ball drop.

Took a ferry up the Thames, which was a relaxing way to start the day.  We even received a bonus commentary courtesy of a tour group, which was also on board.  I think we were more interested than the tour members!  We made good on our pledge to return to the British Museum after our last visit was so rudely interrupted.  Amazing to stand there and gaze at the Rosetta Stone which was clearly the most popular exhibit in the museum.  I was also thrilled to see the Elgin Marbles having read so much about the controversy surrounding them.  Michael was disappointed that the Great Wave by Hokusai was not on display.

 






We were also able to visit both the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery.  Christine was happy to view the Constable’s on display as well as the Turner’s and Gainsborough’s.  We saw the portrait of the Duchess of Cambridge, which has caused controversy.  I have to agree that the painting does make her look considerably older than she is.

The entrance to Downing Street was as crowded with tourists as ever.  I do feel a little sorry for the policemen manning the barricades there.  We showed Christine the Banksy rat, which is still on the wall at Embankment.  I am not sure that she was that impressed. 

Dinner was a real treat – not so much the food but the surroundings.  We dined at the Mayflower Pub in Rotherhithe, which is the oldest pub on the Thames having been established in 1621.  The Mayflower sailed from the mooring outside the pub to Plymouth and then onto America.  Unbelievable that you can dine in a pub that is nearly 400 years old.

Saturday was another market day so we took Christine to the Portobello Road Antiques Market.  Such a busy place and we shuffled our way down the road with the ever present crowds.  We also had a photo stop at the Notting Hill bookshop (along with just about everyone else).  Our final market stop was Camden Road, which was also packed with people.  I don’t think that Christine enjoyed this market, as it was a bit grungier than she is used to.  I always enjoy walking around and people watching.

A curry at Brick Lane was next on the list and we enlisted Christine to do the bargaining for us.  The restaurant touts all offer deals as you walk by their restaurants.  One tout offered a free glass of wine with our meal however Christine negotiated a free bottle of wine.  The meal was quite possibly the best curry I have had and having it washed down with the free wine made it even better.  I think Christine was quite pleased with herself!

Next day was a trip to Hampton Court Palace.  The palace and the gardens are vast and we took the audio tours.  We have used audio tours numerous times in our travels however I think these commentaries were the most interesting.  One tour took us through the palace kitchens and it was fascinating to hear how huge banquets were prepared and catered for.  The gardens were magnificent and we had a lovely time strolling around.  We then had a beautiful lunch at the Riverside restaurant.  It was quite simply a perfect day.

Sisters Are Doing It For Themselves

Michael obtained some work in Ireland so he left on the boat train for Dublin early in the morning.  Christine and I decided to move in closer to the heart of London so booked eight nights at the Park Plaza County Hall.  The hotel was very nice and just a short stroll from Waterloo Station. 

We did undertake a few cultural experiences.  We visited the Florence Nightingale Museum where we learned all about Florence’s life.  She was definitely a woman ahead of her time with a remarkable dedication to her calling.  The Museum of London was also an interesting place.  There was an exhibition detailing London through the ages, from pre-historic times to the present day.  Very well presented.  The Jewel Tower was fascinating.  It is one of the two remaining sections of the mediaeval Palace of Westminster.  Nearly 650 years old it is amazing to stand in the tower and look over Westminster Abbey.  We also visited Westminster Cathedral, which looks so plain compared to the Abbey. The Wallace Collection was another highlight.  I noticed a number of Rubens, which I had missed on my first visit.

We also had a few frivolous experiences.  At Knightsbridge we visited Harrods.  While we were waiting for the store to open, we checked out the Ecuadorian Embassy where I half expected to see Julian peeking out from behind the curtain.  No such luck.  Harrods itself was a unique experience.  First we had a look at the Diana & Dodi Memorial, which is quite hideous in itself.  Worse, however, is the statue of Dodi bare-chested and dancing with Diana.  The pedestal on which it stands is inscribed “Innocent Victims”.  It truly leaves one speechless.  The rest of Harrods is a delight and I don’t think I would ever tire of just wandering around the store.

I took Christine to the Sherlock Holmes Museum before heading out to Galvin Bistro De Luxe.  It was the first time I have ever been to a Michelin starred restaurant and I hope it won’t be the last.  Dinner was lovely and we both enjoyed the experience.

I was pleased to be able to find the Postman’s Park again as I particularly wanted to show Christine the plaques dedicated to the memory of people who died heroically.  It is such a lovely place and Michael and I stumbled upon it by accident.  Unfortunately the park was crowded with teenagers on an excursion so the peaceful ambience was lost however I think Christine enjoyed it.

We took a number of walks along the Thames and crossed many of the famous bridges – Westminster Bridge, Tower Bridge, London Bridge, Waterloo Bridge & the Wibbly Wobbly Bridge (Millennium Bridge).  All of the bridges offer fabulous views of the city.

Abbey Road was another highlight for Christine, an old Beatles fan from way back.  I took a photo of her crossing the road at the now famous crossing.  There were a number of people doing the same thing and one feels sorry for the drivers who dutifully stop and wait for people’s photo opportunities.  It must be a nightmare in the summer.  Hamleys was another lovely experience. It is the oldest toy store in the world and is a child’s dream.  Christine was most impressed with the life-sized Lego Royal Wedding tableau and the Lego Queen complete with throne and corgi.

I was finally able to experience High Tea in London.  Michael arranged for Christine and I to go to the Hilton at Green Park.  It was great fun to play ladies for the afternoon complete with champagne and as much tea as we could drink.  The sandwiches and little cakes were delicious as were the scones and clotted cream.

We took a trip down memory lane for Christine with a trip to her childhood home in Luton.  Luton is city approximately 40 minutes via train from London.  When we arrived, we caught the bus to her old primary school.  Unfortunately we were unable to walk around the grounds as the school was fully locked up – a sign of the times.  We then walked to her old house at 1 Clevedon Road.  The area is quite gentrified now as evidenced by the BMW parked in the driveway.  We took the bus back into the centre of Luton where we lunched in a church that had been converted into a pub.  Nearby was St Mary’s Church, a beautiful 850 year- old building.  We would have liked to have looked inside however it too was locked up – another sign of the times.

There were many other places we visited including the Twinings Museum, Lambeth Palace and The Globe.  We also had a drink in a wonderful pub called the Windsor Castle and sat in the Queen Mother corner.  The pub was absolutely chock full of royal memorabilia and autographed photos of stars of the stage, screen and television including a number of photos of the cast of Coronation Street, Eastenders & Are You Being Served.  Very Interesting.

Overall, I think Christine enjoyed her stay with us, despite the accommodation debacle.  It was good to share our childhood memories – some good, mostly bad.  I don’t know when I will see her again.  I guess it will depend on how long we can keep our travels going.