Monday 21 April 2014

In Dublin’s Fair City










I said farewell to my beloved London and boarded the boat train to join Michael in Ireland.  The train journey took about 4 hours and was very pleasant.  I didn’t have anyone sitting next to me, indeed there were hardly any passengers at all, so I was able to spread out and make myself comfortable.  I arrived at Holyhead where a short bus ride takes you to the ferry to cross to Ireland.  The ferry, which is called Ulysses (a name that frequently crops up here), is huge and carries both passengers and vehicles.  The crossing took approximately 4 hours or so and was very comfortable in fact if you didn’t look out of the window to see the receding shoreline you would not know that you were moving.  I arrived in Dublin where another bus took me to the city centre to be reunited with Michael.
 
We spent the first week staying in an apartment in Temple Bar.  This is a very lively district full of backpackers from every nation that were there to drink at the many, many bars.  It was a fun place to be as Irish music could be heard as you walked the cobbled laneways.  Unfortunately, Michael and I were about 30 years too old for this scene.  Our sons would have loved it though.
 
Michael took me for many walks around the city.  One of the major attractions is the statue of Molly Malone or, as the locals call her, the tart with the cart or, my personal favourite, the trollop with the scallops!  Ah, such a way with words the Irish have.  Yes, apparently the lovely ballad that we have all sung for many years was written about a prostitute.  The things you learn. They have names for all of there statutes that we have seen Thin Lizzy is the ace with the bass, James Joyce the prick with the stick and Oscar Wilde is the queer with the leer.
Oscar Wilde

 









Dublin Castle is an interesting place.  It is not as grand as many others we have seen however it does have a charm to it and there is a wonderful painted ceiling in the hall.
 




The number one tourist attraction though is the Guinness Storehouse.  Naturally Michael was keen to visit so we spent an afternoon wandering through the brewery with some ex workmates of Michael’s who happened to be working in Ireland.  Not being a beer drinker of any sort, I didn’t expect to find much of interest however the exhibits were fascinating and very well displayed.  I even sampled a brew however I am still not a convert.  The tour finished upstairs in a bar, which has the best views over Dublin.
 







Something far more appealing to me was our visit to the Jameson distillery.  We had intended to take a tour of the complex however the queue was so long that we decided to just pull up a seat at the bar and try the goods instead.  We spent a leisurely afternoon sampling some very fine whiskey indeed and then finished off with a lovely Irish coffee.  Michael enjoyed the afternoon even though he is not generally a whiskey drinker.
 
We attended two games of Gaelic football, which was fun. Michael had been given premium tickets to the game so we ventured off to Croke Park Stadium to spend the afternoon cheering the teams on.  The game is similar to Australian football with the main differences being that it is played with a round ball and there is no tackling allowed.  The funny part was that at the end of the games the victorious teams’ songs were played.  The first was Danny Boy and the second was Molly Malone however the lyrics remained the same and did not reflect anything to do with football.  Still, it was a fun afternoon, even if it did make me miss my beloved Hawks.
Kilmainham Goal (good tour)

We are now staying in a nice two-bedroom cottage in the suburb of St Kevin’s.  This is a much quieter location compared to Temple Bar and much more suited to our lifestyle.  At the end of the street there is one of the many canals, which wend their way through Dublin.  We have adopted the habit of an evening stroll along the canal bank and it is very relaxing watching the swans and ducks glide by with the occasional barge.










It took me a little while to warm to Dublin, literally and figuratively.  When I first arrived the weather was damp and quite cold and the city seemed a little dull when compared to London.  Now that daylight savings has kicked in, it stays light until 9.00pm and the days are full of sunshine and the city seems to have been given a new lease of life.  There are a number of large parks and gardens, which are now bursting with colour.  Tulips are everywhere and azaleas are now starting to bloom and the grass is greener than I have seen anywhere else. 





 









The local cuisine is nice as long as you like potatoes.  Every meal comes with potatoes and quite often, with two styles of potatoes.  It is nothing to be given a roast with both mashed and roast potatoes.  The soup of the day is invariably leek and potato and of course fries and wedges are served everywhere.  I think I am starting to look like a potato! There is also a dish that we have seen advertised which consists of hot chips served with rice and curry sauce.  They certainly like their carbs here!
 
The Irish are very proud of their famous authors with James Joyce being their all-time number one favourite.  Michael has ambitiously embarked on the reading of Ulysses and, as only a Herring male can, has become an expert.  The tale is set in Dublin and wherever you go there are references either to the novel or to James Joyce.  It looks as though Joyce drank in every pub in Dublin, as there seems to be a plaque or notice in the pub windows stating that either Joyce drank there or one or more of the characters of his book drank there. There is even a plaque on one of the houses for the birth of the character Leopold Bloom from Ulysses.