The June Bank Holiday afforded us another chance for a weekend in Europe and this time, following a recommendation from James and Amber, we headed to Wroclaw, Poland. An uneventful two and a half our flight and a comfortable bus ride from the airport saw us arrive at our hotel, ready to explore a new city.
Wroclaw (pronounced Vrohts-wahf, so you sound a little like Scooby-Doo when you say it) is a beautiful old city on the Odra River.
There are 12 islands connected by more than 100 bridges, making the Polish Venice an exceptionally pretty town to walk around. We have been very fortunate to visit many cities with market squares, and until our visit to Wroclaw I have always ranked Brussels as the most beautiful I have seen. Wroclaw has now stolen that crown and it is easy to see why the city was chosen as the 2016 European Capital of Culture.
Every building surrounding the square has been restored and all are stunning. They hold Christmas markets each year and the square must provide a gorgeous backdrop, lit by gas streetlamps. There was a festival in progress and the area was full of food vendors, bars, local delicacies and handcrafts as well as a large stage hosting various performers. The atmosphere was lively and the weather perfect – up to 29 degrees and sunny.
There are 12 islands connected by more than 100 bridges, making the Polish Venice an exceptionally pretty town to walk around. We have been very fortunate to visit many cities with market squares, and until our visit to Wroclaw I have always ranked Brussels as the most beautiful I have seen. Wroclaw has now stolen that crown and it is easy to see why the city was chosen as the 2016 European Capital of Culture.
Every building surrounding the square has been restored and all are stunning. They hold Christmas markets each year and the square must provide a gorgeous backdrop, lit by gas streetlamps. There was a festival in progress and the area was full of food vendors, bars, local delicacies and handcrafts as well as a large stage hosting various performers. The atmosphere was lively and the weather perfect – up to 29 degrees and sunny.
Walking around the city, we soon came across the famous gnomes. There are more than 400 bronze statues scattered throughout the town, each with its own personality. The statues actually have their roots in the anti-Soviet resistance movement, the Orange Alternative, when people defaced communist propaganda with paintings of gnomes. This led to protest marches advocating for dwarves’ rights and the police crackdown made national news and made the authorities look ridiculous. Gnome pictures started appearing in other Polish towns before 10,000 protestors arrived at Wroclaw wearing orange cone-shaped hats in what became known as the Revolution of Dwarves. It was a way for the people to fight peacefully against communism. It was fascinating to discover the political connotations to these delightful statues and we made it our mission to track down as many of the cheeky gnomes as we could.
Cathedral Island (Ostrow Tumski) has an incredible number of religious buildings and is a peaceful area to wander around, as there are hardly any shops or houses. Unfortunately, the Siege of Breslau (the former name of Wroclaw) led to major destruction on the island, so many of the churches and buildings are reconstructions, although you wouldn’t realise this until you look at the many photographs of the utter devastation caused.
The Botanical Gardens are also situated on Cathedral Island and date back to 1811. We spent a good couple of hours admiring the beautiful grounds and flowers. There was a delightful huge pond with picturesque bridges and it was a relaxing and peaceful place to escape the heat.
Wroclaw’s Market Hall was recommended by James and Amber as an interesting place to see. This neo-gothic market hall was built in 1906 and resembles a concrete cathedral on the inside. On sale is a wide collection of local produce and a fabulous pierogi bar that sells a number of traditional Polish dishes. There was also a lovely hipster-style café at the rear selling superb coffee. We visited there a couple of times and made sure to stock up on delicious Polish chocolates.
The weather was so spectacular that we decided to take a cruise along the Odra River, the second biggest river in Poland. It was lovely gliding along the river and viewing the old town as we went. We sailed under the Grunwaldski suspension bridge, which was completed in 1910 and is Poland’s longest suspension bridge. It was a very relaxing way to see more of the beautiful city.
The food in Wroclaw was exceptional. Every meal we had, whether it was a simple dish of pierogi or a more elaborate meal of pork knuckle or schnitzel, was cooked to perfection. The highlight of our trip though was our final dinner. Michael booked Jadka, a restaurant serving traditional Polish cuisine inside a refurbished Prussian-era butchery. I ordered a dish of pork jelly, vinegar, chives and vodka for my appetizer. When my dish arrived and the waiter poured my vodka, he noticed Michael’s envious expression and poured a glass of vodka for him as well. The jelly was presented in the shape of a pig and was absolutely delicious. I would have liked to take a photo however I am always too self-conscious to photograph my food (I know just about everyone else does but it just doesn’t feel right to me). The next dish was mutton dumplings, wild garlic and butter and was heavenly. The lamb loin, lovage and green asparagus, which followed was amazing as too was the rhubarb sweet roll, crumble and sour cream. All of this was served with recommended wines and the waiters were very attentive and knowledgeable. Needless to say, Michael thoroughly enjoyed his meal as well. The whole experience was the “icing on the cake” of our trip to Wroclaw.
