Arrived in Irkutsk and staying at the Trans-Sib
Hostel, more an apartment with a room for travelers.
Nice, warm and safe it has 2 iron doors before you get to the front door. The
hosts are very nice giving advice on places to see and have a nice black dog
called Myxa (pronounced Mu-Kha meaning fly).
Arrived at 8:00 am it was still dark,
it does not get light here until 9:00 am and dark at 7:00 pm at the moment.
Part of the problem is that they have decided to stay in Summer time all year
round.
Had a guide take us around the city,
who explained the history of the town and architecture including pre and post
Stalin design. Basically anything that looks like a box is post Stalin design. The
town is pretty with old wooden churches that are being restored after the
Soviet period. These had been used as storage places during that time and the icons
and paintings inside were painted over with white paint. Only 8 of the original 35 churches survived
post revolution with the rest being destroyed.
The timber houses are badly in
need of work, but council rules on renovations are very strict so the owners
let them get run down until most catch fire. The town has a history of fires
and after the last big one in 1890, a law was passed requiring all the main
street shops to be built of brick. The people here are very positive about life
post Soviet rule and the crime rate is down significantly from all the turmoil
of a number of years ago.
Michael got his dive into Lake Baikal,
the water temperature was 5C and the air temp was minus 2 and snowing. As you
can see from the photos he had his thermals on, plus a blue Tellytubby suit and
then the dry suit. I went to the Natural museum, which included live Nerpa (seals)
of Lake Baikal, the only fresh water seals in the world. The pair they had
looked like they were over inflated and need some exercise. Usual
communications of pointing and all signs were in Russian.
Went for a trip to the markets, a bit
like the Queen Vic. A visit to the market shows lots of food with no queuing
and people actually having the money to purchase what is on offer. Found out
where all the camel socks and jackets ended up from our last blog, all there in
pristine condition for sale. Russia has certainly changed since last time I was
here nearly 30 years ago.
I kept telling Michael about the coffee shortage and
how expensive it was when you did actually find some to purchase and insisted
that we come prepared with bags and bags of coffee for our trip. When we got
here we have found abundant supplies and even cheaper than home.
The meals have
been good and communications overall has not been to bad although the locals
still shake their heads when Michael starts speaking.
Have been catching trams around the
city, which still have conductors on. The stops are pre defined so getting
around is pretty easy.
Went to one of the local parks to feed
the squirrels. They were not timid at all and were enjoying the biscuits,
although Michael believes they would have preferred honey coated macadamia
nuts.
Now travelling to Ekaterinburg with 2
nights on the train to get there. We have gone from -16 outside as we crossed
Siberia to a pleasant 0c. This has been the best train yet “Rossija” number 1.
First class cabin has been excellent and compared to the Russian train out of
Mongolia, the food and facilities have been way better. We can take as long as we want over our meal
and can dine whenever we want too!
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