Nice bus trip down from Riga to
Vilnius and stayed at the Alexa
Hotel, just on the edge of the wall of the
old city. Lovely old city part that merges into the main business area and
across the river is the new CBD with glass towers. The town does not show the
affluence of Riga or Tallinn and there are less furs seen here and a lot more
empty buildings.
Lithuania was the first of the Baltic
States to gets its freedom from the CCCP with a small but fatal protest getting
the ball rolling. The country has a history of occupation with the Russians
(good old Peter the Great), the Poles in the 19th century, Russia
1920 to 1939, then Germany and then back to Russia. It is surprising that they
have been able to keep any of their language and cultural ways that, if
anything, appear stronger now, particularly as parts of the population were
deported to gulags in Russia or workshops in Germany or just shot by Nazis and
KGB. The once strong Jewish population is less than 5% of what it was prior to
WWII.
Lithuania is now part of the EU, but
has not adopted the Euro and uses Lits as its currency. They don’t like turning
on lights - not sure if they have an
electricity problem or are still stuck in the old ways. Most shops are only half
lit, even the hotel had two lights above the bed with bulbs but they are only
there for decoration purposes.
We are starting to get into Catholic
territory here so the churches are changing from Russian Orthodox to Roman
Catholic and Lutheran. Visited the church museum at St Michael’s the Archangel
church that had a vast collection of monstrance’s, bishops’ robes, chalices and
other altar ware. The place was a church, but ended up being a collection point
for all the surrounding churches that did not survive the Soviet period. The altar ware dates from the 13th
century, containing lots of gold and intricate work. There was also a large collection
of bishop and priest vestments that could be seen in great detail as they were
not under glass but displayed in huge drawers that laid them out.
It must get cold here even the trees
have woolen coats on them.
Visited the KGB museum, with a good
exhibition on the history of Lithuanian freedom fighters from 1946 to 1954
against the Soviets. The basement was used both by the KGB and Nazi’s as a
prison, confessional and execution site for thousands of Lithuanians. Like
Phnom Penh it is hard to fathom the sheer numbers of people processed and life
extinguished in these places. The KGB had so many bodies that they ran out of
places to hide them. This does not include the thousands that were deported as
whole families.
Just to cheer me up they also showed
equipment used by the KGB on how they monitored foreigners and suspects
including cameras installed in all hotel rooms occupied by foreigners and
assigning agents to follow them. Christine,
we may have made the Soviet pin up league for the year we visited. Not a nice thought!
We now head off to Warsaw Poland by
train for a few days to have a look around there.
No comments:
Post a Comment