Wednesday 17 July 2013

Maybe It’s Because I’m a Londoner












Well, we have made it to the old country, land of hope and glory etc.
 
After leaving Toronto on a night flight we reached London and waited in an express queue for an hour at Heathrow Airport listening to a short, bald South African man berating his wife for leaving their Wimbledon tickets in the safe back home.  Nasty little man probably thought that he was showing everyone how useless his wife was when all he was doing was proving what a tosser he was! We took the express train to Paddington, which was very good and looked new even though it was celebrating 20 years.  The journey only took 15 minutes.

Once we got the accommodation sorted which was 3 floors up with no lift (sound familiar?), headed off to explore Primrose Hill, which is a lovely area with little high street shops tucked away and of course Ye Olde English Pubs (more gastro now than traditional) know as the Washington. The apartment was only 15min by tube from Baker St.

Lovely fox seen from the 3rd floor in the backyard

We then caught the train to Baker St and Michael route marched us through the sites.  It was nice to see the Sherlock Holmes tiles at the station that I remember from my visit 30 years ago. We were happy to marvel at the old buildings and started the quest for the gourmet English fare of steak and kidney pudding, egg and bacon butties, bangers and mash, Aragon chicken pie and fish and chips. The quest started well with one pub having the steak and kidney.

That evening we walked up to Primrose Hill, which has a marvelous view to the city. We discovered it does not get dark until 10:00 pm but worse is that it gets light at 4:30 am.  The apartment could really use some black out curtains from the Blitz.
 



 







The next day we walked from Primrose Hill through Regents Park. Michael was on squirrel watch, but found penguins instead.  The London Zoo is on the edge of Regent Park and we looked over a low fence and penguins were looking up at us. On a positive note squirrels were found. 

 


We walked through Queen Mary’s Rose Garden where all the roses are out on display, some the size of bread & butter plates. 


 Just beautiful. From there we walked down Baker Street and meandered through the streets of London or as Michael likes to say “flaneuring.” In Hyde Park we saw the memorial to the London bus and underground bombings which is a very somber memorial consisting of steel poles with the victims names, date and location of death. 


 

We also saw the Australian war memorial, which although modern was well done. 



 

Then we continued onto Buckingham Palace and happened to arrive bang on the Changing of the Guard.  Unfortunately neither the Queen nor corgis were in residence much to Michael’s annoyance.


 

We then wandered up to Trafalgar Square where Canada Day was being celebrated and off to the pub for some lunch. We also checked out Fortnum and Mason’s and found a barber for Michael in Jermyn St which has only been trading since 1730 and booked an appointment for the next day as Michael has not shaved since September last year and is starting to look a little scruffy.

The following day we took Michael in for his haircut and shave. The rugged lumberjack look is if fine for Canada, but we felt a more refined look for business was appropriate in London. Plus it would stop him frightening people when he boomed out “G’Day”.   He now resembles a startled turtle that has emerged from hibernation.  On the positive side, he also looks 10 years younger.

 

Michael found a cheese monger that has only been in business since 1670 to pick up a bit of cheese. No Monty Python skits allowed.

Whilst Michael worked I wandered around soaking up the glorious sunshine they are having. We have also been keeping an eye on rugby progress and the tennis.

The following weekend headed down to the Shard which is a complete eyesore.  One wonders how such a monstrosity was approved and it really is a blot on the landscape as it can be seen from miles away.  The Gherkin is bad enough but at least it is surrounded by other tall buildings, so that at best it is partially hidden. We then walked to St Guys hospital to see the old operating theater that was in the attic of a church in the hospital grounds. The theater was used on public patients and could accommodate 150 people packed in like sardines to watch the operations. This was in the days before anesthetic and pain relief so it would have been a horrifying spectacle.

 

 
We also walked around Borough Market, which was excellent and full of fresh produce. Then we walked part of the Dickens walk to end up at the Dickens pub to see the last half of the rugby. There were many happy Englishmen that day and two sad Aussies.

We explored a bit further and ended up at the Camden Markets, which used to be the old horse stables for the canal boats being towed. The markets are massive selling everything from clothes, jewelry, household items etc of very good quality.  The place is a hipster’s paradise and I know that Tim would love it there.  We finished the evening with a visit to Amy Winehouse’s local.  How cool are we!

Decided the place was a bit small with Michael working and no room to sit so found another place in Albion Street near Edgware Road, which had Hyde Park at the end of the street and was much bigger and nicer (and not up 3 flights of stairs). There is a large Iranian and Iraqi community with plenty of Middle Eastern restaurants and very flash and expensive cars as well. Michael chatted to a heavily armed Old Bill who was standing on a street corner. He was very friendly and assured us that there was no criminal activity and that he was only guarding a VIP. As there were three of them it must be one important VIP and a hefty expense on the taxpayer.

We caught up with Ann and Vimal who were visiting to see family. It is funny seeing friends on the other side of the world, and it was lovely to catch up on what is happening back home. As usual Michael corrupted Vimal into having a pint of Fullers like Vimal did when he lived here 40 years ago.
at Harrod's shrine to Di and Dodi
 
We also caught up with Michael’s godmother Margaret who as not aged a day since I meet her 25 years ago. I had warned Michael not to race off and leave Margaret behind and be mindful of her age.  Needless to say, both of them walked off leaving me behind as Margaret goes on regular walking holidays and is as fit as a fiddle. We started the day with coffee on the banks of the Serpentine River in Hyde Park followed by a wonderful lunch and long chat.  The only disappointment was that we couldn’t find the Mr Darcy statue, which had been erected in the river. It must have been removed.


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