Thursday 20 November 2014

LDN








We caught the ferry Ulysses from Dublin Harbour to Holyhead and once again the crossing was very pleasant.  The ferry was very crowded as it was the end of the school holidays and many families were returning to the UK.  I had expected a nightmare experience at customs in Wales as the UK is has increased their security threat level to severe and with a number of Ebola scares I thought we may be subjected to increased scrutiny and temperature checks.  Ever alert, I had my passport in my hand with my finger marking the correct page ready for a long wait and then – walked straight through!  No passport check, no security, no sniffer dogs, nothing.  We then caught the train to Euston station (another pleasant journey) and no one even looked at our tickets.  We checked into our hotel, The President in Russell Square, and lost no time reacquainting ourselves with our now familiar stomping ground.

Our apartment was ready to move into on Monday so it was back to the Nell Gwynn complex in Chelsea where we have stayed a couple of times before.  I love the location as it is within walking distance to Harrods and it wasn’t long before I was there checking out the store. 

I took a tour of Kensington Palace, as I wanted to see the exhibition Fashion Rules.  On display were a number of dresses from Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales.  The dresses from the Queen dated back to the 1950’s and were absolutely exquisite.  The beading and embroidery were unbelievable in their detail and would still look glorious if they were worn today.  The items on display from Princess Margaret were from the 1960’s and 1970’s and made me smile with their bright colours and “out there” fashions.  The ones that disappointed were Diana’s.  It was surprising to see just how daggy the 1980’s were for fashion.  I could remember seeing photos of her wearing the dresses at the time and she looked beautiful in them, however they have not stood the test of time at all.  The rest of the palace was interesting with displays on Queen Victoria, which were fascinating.  One of the more bizarre features was a scratch and smell map of the Georgian Court which you could take around with you and then smell what each room would have smelled like in the time of George II and Queen Caroline.   I can honestly say I have never had that experience before!

One of the delights of coming to London is walking through Hyde Park.  We have been lucky as the first couple of weeks that we have been here have been very mild and quite sunny.  The park is ablaze with autumnal colour and it is just beautiful to stroll through the area people watching and seeing all the squirrels scampering about.  The Canadians go on about the fall colours of Canada but I would say that London is just as beautiful in the autumn.
 
The Christmas lights are being progressively switched on all over London and the city is being transformed into a winter wonderland.  Covent Garden looks beautiful with a giant illuminated Christmas tree and a huge statue of a reindeer.  Massive decorative balls hang from the ceiling and fairy lights twinkle everywhere.  Oxford Street switched on their lights last week and the whole street was closed off to traffic to allow families to stroll the street and admire the lights.  The window displays at Selfridges are amazing and the big department stores compete to outdo each other with ever more lavish displays. Harrods, John Lewis, Harvey Nichols and Fortnum and Masons all set the benchmark high.  Regent Street will turn on their lights on Sunday evening and I am sure that they will be just as spectacular.  Outdoor ice skating rinks have sprung up outside Somerset House and the Natural History Museum with children and adults alike having a wonderful time.  Michael and I either take a walk or a bus ride each evening to see all the decorations.  Marks and Spencer have even changed their name to Magic and Sparkle for Christmas!
 
Michael and I have been unbelievably lucky to return to London in time to see the completion of the artistic installation Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red.  I mentioned this installation in our last London blog when we were lucky to see the planting of the first few poppies in the moat of the Tower of London and then saw it again after the planting of the next few thousand poppies.  Now there are over 800,000 ceramic poppies and the visual impact is powerful. Over 4,000,000 have been to view the exhibition and Michael and I joined the throng shuffling past.  A petition was started to have the poppies remain permanently in the moat however, every single poppy has been sold to raise money for charity, so they have already started to remove them.  8,000 volunteers (including Michael’s Godmother) will remove, clean, package and post them to their new owners.



 




I took myself off to the Cartoon Museum to see an exhibition titled Hogarth’s London.  There were many of his prints on display and I spent a few hours happily examining the works and reading all about them.  The museum provided magnifying glasses so I was able to really study each print.  There was hardly any one else about, so I could take my time and really enjoy the artworks.

Michael and I attended the Lord Mayor’s Show.  This show has been held for 799 years so next year’s show should be an even bigger celebration.  We watched the flotilla featuring the Queen’s barge Gloriana row gently down the Thames.  The Tower Bridge opened to salute the flotilla and then it was time for us to head to the parade.  The parade was huge and involved more than 7,000 people, 180 horses along with dancers, drummers and floats.   

The mayor is transported in the gilded state coach, which is normally on display at the London Museum.  The Worshipful Company of Feltmakers, Pipemakers, Paviors, Marketors, Fruiterers, Farmers, Glass Sellers, Fishmongers, Surveyors and Chartered Accountants were just some of the groups represented.  There were a number of military bands, reggae singers, piano players and other musicians also as well as numerous floats representing the armed forces both past and present.  There was one entertainer who cajoled the crowd with cries of “Hi De Hi” to which we all dutifully responded “Hi De Ho”.  It was a fun way to spend some time knowing that many other generations before us had cheered their new mayor in a similar fashion.  The main thing that I learned is that there are two mayors of London.  One is The Right Honourable the Lord Mayor of London, which is not be confused with Mayor of London.  I have included 2 links, which explain the difference and are quite interesting. 


 


St Paul’s Cathedral was open for free as part of the Lord Mayor’s Show.  It is a fabulous building of immense proportions and is beautifully decorated throughout.  It was interesting to wander the crypts and to see Wellington’s tomb, which is so humble when compared with Napoleon’s lavish tomb at the Hotel des Invalides.
 
The Lord Mayor’s Show finished with a bang with a spectacular fireworks display over the Thames. The rain, which had threatened all day, came down quite heavily just before the fireworks finished, however no one put up their umbrellas, as they knew that they would block the view for the people behind.  We all stood there getting quite soaked instead.  The British really do have beautiful manners.

I had a very pleasant walk around Fulham Palace which in the historical home of the Bishops of London.  The palace grounds are beautiful to walk around and there is a 500 year old oak tree there among many fruit trees and other rare trees.  It is a very peaceful place with many squirrels scampering about.

On Armistice Day I was fortunate to join the crowds at Trafalgar Square for the Silence in the Square event.  The programme started at 10.00am with a Welsh male choir singing songs from WW1.  The choir was followed by various readings by actors and other entertainers and performers. At precisely 11.00am all traffic was stopped and the crowd observed the most profound 2 minutes silence I have ever experienced.  Not a sound could be heard, not a cough, sneeze nor a baby crying.  The Last Post was played followed by the boyband, Collabro, singing Bring Him Home from Les Miserables while being showered with red poppy petals.  The service was absolutely beautiful and very moving.  The crowd was then invited to place paper red poppy petals into the fountains at Trafalgar Square.

The Household Cavalry Museum was next on my agenda and I spent a morning listening to a guided tour explaining the various exhibits.  It was a fascinating look at the history of the cavalry as well as to take a glimpse into their every day life.  One of the most sobering displays dealt with the deadly IRA attack on the Household Cavalry in 1982 during which 4 soldiers of the Blues & Royals and 7 horses were killed. 
 
Another exhibition I attended was called Fields of Battle Lands of Peace 14-18, which was held in St James’s Park.  These wonderful photographs show how nature has over time healed the battlefields.  Each photograph links what happened one hundred years ago with what the area looks like today.  I found this particularly interesting as Michael and I had visited a number of the photographed areas when we toured the battlefields of the Somme.
 
I have just returned from the Tower of London where I went to see the royal salute in honour of Prince Charles’ birthday.  Three guns fired a total of 62 rounds to mark the prince’s 66th birthday.  It was quite a show and by the time the last shot was fired you could barely see the guns through the smoky haze.        





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